I got this to switch the mic on my Astro a50s between my PS5 and my PC and it works well for that so far but I have some issues with how the device's input layout, predominantly the external power input being on the front of the device and the button to switch inputs being feed from the back of it. In some setups I'm sure this is fine but I feel that the majority of people will want the switch to be connected to the front and the ability to connect a dedicated power source in the back of the device. Also $40 is very steep for a usb switch that has an 8 year old design with no USB 3 compatibility and while IOGEAR does offer an newer version that one will run you $80 which is frankly unacceptable and I am lucky I did not need this for a USB 3 device. The build quality also feels middling for a $40 item, with the worst part being the button's cable, it is very thin and feels like I could accidently pull it out or rip it most cheep wired ear buds come with wires that feel strong than this switch which is the only way to switch outputs so if this cable breaks you are out of luck as there is no switch on the device it's self. The one reason I bought this over cheaper options is many of those $20 dollar usb switches seems to have no room for electrical protection and thus might short out the devices you have hooked up to them and several reviews back my theory on those cheaper switches up. I really wish companies would make this type of switch in a 1in to 2out or 2in to 2out configuration as I don't need that many slots. Overall I would recommend this only if you don't need USB 3 compatibility AND want to play it safe with potential the devices you hook up, really want/need a device with a wired switch, or if it goes on sale for less than $30.I've used this switcher between a MacBook and Win7 desktop and then Win10 Dell laptop and Win7 desktop. The MacBook and laptop were connected through a Dell usb-c powered dock. The desktop has an Asus Z170A motherboard, connected to a usb 3.0 port. I have the unit powered with the mini-usb plug. It switches a backlit Ducky keyboard and Razer mouse between two machines.It is very reliable with the MacBook and Dell laptop, instant-on every time. It is less reliable with the Win7 desktop, as it often takes 3-5 cycles to get it to recognize the devices. The time since last connection seems to affect this, when been a while since I switched it works pretty quickly, but like switching to the MacBook and then back to the Win7 desktop (or after hitting the power button to take it out of sleep) often results in no recognition and having to cycle a few times. It's kind of annoying.Overall I'm happy with it. I like the button press. I just wish it was more reliably instantaneous with my Win7 desktop. I recommend using it with a backlit keyboard and/or mouse, as those indicate a connection.I bought this to use my Corsair K95 and Logitech G502 on my work laptop and personal computer. It's worth noting, before I started using the micro USB power port, any action involving long clicks (highlighting text, dragging windows) would randomly not work. Also an occasional keystroke wouldn't register. Providing dedicated power has resolved all these issues.As far as my setup goes, I have two 12' USB cables connected to A and B, A being my almost always on work computer and B is my sporadically turned on gaming PC. B is plugged into my center monitor's USB port which is then connected to B. This was done for cable management reasons, and I only mention it because my setup is more convoluted than most but still works great. Originally I was going to spend more money for a KVM that supported triple 165hz monitors; but this was more practical and I just let the monitors detect signal.The physical button is a nice bonus, the best perk was the price. I'd highly recommend this to anyone looking for a keyboard switch that supported USB3, and cannot emphasize enough that a lot of described issues in lower ranking reviews I experienced and solved by providing dedicated power.I bought this because it was the closest I could find to what I actually wanted which would be a version of this that is USB-C based that has all cables connect from the back. I'm not sure why every manufacturer of a switch like this insists on putting inputs and outputs on multiple sides of the device. This thing is big, ugly and I don't want it on my desk because even when it's tidy it looks like a rats nest.Thankfully because this comes with a wired remote, I can hide the stupid box behind everything and run just one wire under my desk where I've secured the remote with some double sided tape. I am a bit disappointed that the one piece that I actually have to interact with is the cheapest/flimsiest feeling thing on my desk. The button feels like it could fall apart at any moment and the cord going to it is likely the absolute minimum possible strength/thickness they could use. I am very worried that I will break the cable when moving things around at my desk.All of that said, it works just fine and came with everything I needed to get it working.This device is perfect. With only USBC power delivery from the primary or secondary PC it's easy to share a Corsair dual USB plug keyboard between PC's.I was a bit skeptical since I have a full RGB keyboard and a wireless mouse, and some people were saying (with switches in general, not just this one) that wireless doesn't work well with switching or their RGB wouldn't work. I dunno, for me it exceeded my expectations. I push the button and I'm working on my home system. Press again and I'm on my work laptop. The switching is fast and solid, with no issues at all.I assumed I would have to plug in the 5V DC-in, at least to have enough power for the RGB, but I mistakenly thought it was a micro USB. It is a mini-USB and I didn't have one. Wired it up without power and it works fine. I imagine that depends more on the USB power provided by the host systems. YMMV, of course.I'm pleased.I purchased this "switch" used with Amazon Prime for 25$cad instead of 70$, so good deal there.It does exactly what it's supposed to do but full price is a little too expensive in my book.I use it as a keyboard+mouse switch between 2 computers (I didn't need monitor switching). I also plugged in some LED lighting that I already had for desk illumination, and when i press the button to switch, I have a visual acknowlegment that i properly pressed because my LEDs flicker (off/on) real quick when I do (side effect that I actually like). All cables were long enough for my needs (around 3 feet) but you might need longer ones. The cable for the trigger button is about 6 feet long. I would buy again for around 20-30$, but not full price.***Update: After over a week of using it, I decided to return it. Sometimes when switching from 1 PC to the other it doesn't register the equipment plugged into it. Happens 1-2 times per day. This happens when I switch from a Windows 10 PC to a Windows 7 PC. Problem is, since I use it as a keyboard and mouse switch, I can no longer do anything on the Win7 PC except hard reboot (power off and on again with power button). I can't keep it if it's going to do that...There's not much to say about this device, it does exactly what you need it too. Not needing an external power connection is nice (although there is one available if needed) and the switching is flawless. The mini switch button is a great touch and I imagine perfect for some set ups.Only two minor gripes:- there's no switch on the box itself that I can see. So if you damage the little switch or the long cord it uses that could be it for the whole unit.- not a dig at Iogear specifically, but as at June 21 USB 3.0 boxes are more than double the cost of USB 2.0. If you buy this unit be prepared for it to drop in price over time.Considering for how long USB 3 has been around it's odd how such a useful product like this is so difficult to find. There are lots of "2 to 1" units but not many like this. The GUS434 is for people like me (and Al Gore) who have several computers on their desktop and need to share USB peripherals easily among those computers. You connect up to 4 peripherals and then can switch these (as a group, not singly) to any one at a time of up to four computers. This avoids the frequent (in my case, anyway) annoyance of cable swapping or unreliable cascading of "2 to 1" units. It's a real relief having found this. IOGEAR includes all the long cables you will need for attaching your PC's.A couple of things to note:1 - The unit has no dongle so must draw power from the target PC's USB bus. If your peripherals also require bus power, it's possible there might not be enough. Self-powered peripherals like large disk drives and scanners will always be OK. Many dongle-less devices such as card readers draw negligible power and will not pose a challenge.2 - The PC selector is a button on a small box connected by a very long cord to the unit. This facilitates flexible placement of the unit but means another wire running across your desk. I like this feature but some might have preferred a switch on the box itself.3 - Someone is going t ask "Why not just network your peripherals with the numerous adapters out there?" I have tried this but networking robs your peripherals (especially USB 3 drives) of their speed. Just way too slow. This unit preserves the performance you paid for in going USB 3.Might seem pricey for what amounts to a switchable hub but if you have multiple computers, worth every penny.I'm betting Al Gore already has one ;-) Easy 5 stars.Das Gerät wird verwendet um dieselbe Maus & Tastatur für einen Laptop und für einen PC verwenden zu können. Und was soll man sagen: Das funktioniert einwandfrei - ein Druck auf den Umschaltknopf, es vergehen wenige Sekunden und man steuert das gewünschte Gerät. Es ist keine zusätzliche Software oder ähnliches notwendig.Kleine Bonusinfo:Ich habe erst überlegt einen KVM Switch (also mit Monitorumschaltung) zu kaufen - diese Geräte sind aber teurer und in meinem Fall überhaupt nicht notwendig, da der Monitor mehrere Anschlüsse hat und der Screen selbst erkennt an welchem Anschluss gerade Input anliegt (bei mir ist der PC am DisplayPort und der Laptop am HDMI angeschlossen).